Tuesday 25 April 2023

Yanatas - The Chimera Flames - and Olympos. Part 1

I'm writing this with the boat tied up alongside the boat yard; the solar arch has been removed to be strengthened - one job finally started. Does this mean we are closer to leaving Finike? We hope so,  but in the meantime here's some cultural edification for you. 

You are going to hear this a lot, but we are so fortunate to be residing so close to incredible historical sights of social, archeological and mythological significance. Similar to the dreamtime stories of Australia's Indigenous people, many Greek and Roman myths are created to explain featues of the landscape that are different or standout in some way. Just to confuse, many Greek myths are about places in Turkey, but now with different names.

One such site is within an hour and a half had piqued my interest within a few weeks of our arrival. I didn't believe at first that something so ancient could actually be real, only a short drive away. 

I'm referring to the Chimera. Flames arising out of the ground, burning for thousands of years and mentioned in The Illiad. How does this relate to the word chimera that we know, is something that is illusionary, or a hope or a dream that isn't possible?  But there is a real Chimera? Gotta see this for myself. With witnessess.

The Chimera was a beast with the head of a lion, the body of a goat, the tail of a snake, and somehow breathed fire. The Chimera was a headach for Iobates, the King of Lycia, as it killed cattle and terrorized the local population of Mt Olympos. (Again, confusing as there are approximately 12 Mt Olympusessesss). And, little known fact, it is thought that the Chimera's mother was Echidna. Maybe the father was Platypus.


King Iobates was presented with a possible solution when Bellerophon turns up. Now this is where the myths diverge, so I present to you one version. Bellerophon, previously known as Hippones, was exiled by the King of Ephyra (his dad) as he had killed his brother Bellaros. He was also renamed Bellerophontes/Bellerophone meaning one who ate Bellaros. In some versions Bellerophone was a hero, no mention of brother-murder, but this is the story referred to on site, so I'm going with it. He takes refuge with the King of Argos, who was instructed to kill Bellerophone. The King of Argos had standards though, and considered killing a guest very bad form. So he sent him to the King of Lycia with the same instruction. Iobates decides to give Bellerophon a chance, and tells him to kill The Chimera. If he does die, then Iobates isn't any worse off, and has dispensed with his obligation.

Now our "hero" isn't completely stupid. He asks Athena, or Poseidon - it's debatable - for help. He is advised he needs to capture the winged horse Pegasus. Now that's ANOTHER story, so take it from me, he gets the horse with the golden bridle.  (But, be still my heart, Pegasus is my school emblem, and I lurve Pegasus, always will). 

Astride Pegasus, Bellerophone is able to fly high above the Chimera, and then swoop down. Belleraphone attacks with his lance, piercing him in the throat, killing the beast. But not before the Chimera scatters flame across the mountain, where it has burned for thousands of years.

True story. Here's the photo.


So Mike and I joined Ian and Malia aka Betty (as I am almost incapable of saying her lovely name correctly, and after so many embarrasing moments Malia let me off the hook, and I rechristened her Betty) from SV Longo Mai on an expedition. 

Ian has a areonautical background, so you can imagine that Mike and he had absolutely nothing to say to each other. Not. With Mike at the wheel we started off, and the conversation basically didn't stop all day. I have photograhic evidence. Luckily no photos exist of the moment Mike decided to overtake a truck on a narrow road on a corner. On a hill. With oncoming cars. Ian yelled "Committed" and Mike pressed forward.  The only reason we survive is that the Turkish drivers politely slow down, pull over or whatever to allow the mad man to continue on. It wasn't just me screaming this time. 

But I digress. Having reached the carpark area at the base of Mount Chimera, we had a slow uphill walk of about 800 metres - felt more like 800 kms. But it was through pine forests and lovely views. And we were keen to see this phenomena for ourselves.


Most of the time Mike and Ian strode ahead,talking talking all the way to the top. Betty made up some story about dodgy knees just to keep me company while I panted and straggled behind. Note: Betty and I are like the main characters in the movie "Twins", except in female form. We're made for each other.


Almost at the top we passed some ruins. These, apparently are what's left of the Temple of Hephaistos, the Greek god associated with fire, the blacksmith to the gods. Also a son of Zeus, wasn't popular with Dad. Seems to be a common theme.






But the real star were the flames themselves. In reality the flames are the result of methane gas (plus other gaseous friends) escaping and igniting. They have burned for over 2500 years, and can change in intensity according to the seasons. My favorite sign on site explained that 'The gas analysis' has been undertaken, but the 'y' had dissappeared from this phrase so it is 'gas anal sis".  Ahhh, I'm so mature.
Once upon a time, the flames were so bright, they could be seen from the sea and sailors used them to navigate. As people didn't understand their origin, they were not considered real, hence the connection to modern day 'chimera'. 








Not to mention the site was scattered with ancient stones, like the one above. The photos don't really do justice to the Chimera, Eternal Flames. Just remember these have been burning before the beginning of Christianity. According to local information, these were in fact the first Olympic flames. Athletes lit their torches from the flames of the Chimera and then ran down the mountain to the city of Olympos for athletic games. 

So of course this meant a trip to Olympos - and the topic of the next post.

PS ... and they almost didn't stop talking, leaving Malia aka Betty and I to explore and take photos at our pleasure. 








2 comments:

  1. Judith: Amazing. You may not be sailing but you are certainly having some adventures. Such a fascinating country and history.

    ReplyDelete
  2. How wonderful and glad you trekked with your new pal Betty. My next fb blog will have a chimera too, not as thrilling however a talking point...looking forward to the next update

    ReplyDelete

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