But First, an Intermission

 Mike put together a video of our first shake-down sail, over the Eid long weekend. Hope you enjoy it...

 

It wasn't far. Finike is fortunate to be close to a wonderful area referred to as Kekova Roads, full of bays and protected anchorages. A very good hidey hole for all sorts of weather conditions. There are many interesting things to see and little restaurants. As we had only a short time, and Mike wanted to check the prop, we didn't plan to move too much. We anchored in Gokkaya Koyu, swung around the anchor a little bit in the afternoon after arriving, and then settled down for a very calm stay after that. The prop checking revealed a serious need to replace the sacrifical anode* on the prop, which required gluing wth "lock-tight", and no motion for 24 hours, so we stayed put and explored with the dinghy.

The Friday night we arrived was the first day after Ramadan, the beginning of Eid. Late afternoon 2 speedy boats loaded with young men in black,  raced into the bay and pulled into the disbanded dock on the other side of the bay. Out came the drums, and until the wee hours of the morning, sang and drummed to celebrate Eid. It wasn't too loud, and I thought it was nice to see them having a good time. Unfortunately the bottles and rubbish they left behind weren't as impressive.

The small restaurant, Smuggler's Cove, wasn't open, but has sine our trip, so we hope for an opportunity to re-visit and enjoy a glass or two.. 

* Sacrificial anodes are metals or alloys attached to the hull that have a more anodic, i.e. less noble, potential than steel when immersed in sea water. These anodes supply the cathodic protection current, but will be consumed in doing so and therefore require replacement for the protection to be maintained. 

What this means is we attach zinc /discs of different sizes on the hull and propeller of the boat. The anodes attract corrosive forces, protecting the boat, but need to replaced reguarly. These are always checked when the boat is taken ouf the water, but can be replaced, with the right equipment, under water. 

Yanatas - The Chimera Flames - and Olympos. Part 1

I'm writing this with the boat tied up alongside the boat yard; the solar arch has been removed to be strengthened - one job finally started. Does this mean we are closer to leaving Finike? We hope so,  but in the meantime here's some cultural edification for you. 

You are going to hear this a lot, but we are so fortunate to be residing so close to incredible historical sights of social, archeological and mythological significance. Similar to the dreamtime stories of Australia's Indigenous people, many Greek and Roman myths are created to explain featues of the landscape that are different or standout in some way. Just to confuse, many Greek myths are about places in Turkey, but now with different names.

One such site is within an hour and a half had piqued my interest within a few weeks of our arrival. I didn't believe at first that something so ancient could actually be real, only a short drive away. 

I'm referring to the Chimera. Flames arising out of the ground, burning for thousands of years and mentioned in The Illiad. How does this relate to the word chimera that we know, is something that is illusionary, or a hope or a dream that isn't possible?  But there is a real Chimera? Gotta see this for myself. With witnessess.

The Chimera was a beast with the head of a lion, the body of a goat, the tail of a snake, and somehow breathed fire. The Chimera was a headach for Iobates, the King of Lycia, as it killed cattle and terrorized the local population of Mt Olympos. (Again, confusing as there are approximately 12 Mt Olympusessesss). And, little known fact, it is thought that the Chimera's mother was Echidna. Maybe the father was Platypus.

King Iobates was presented with a possible solution when Bellerophon turns up. Now this is where the myths diverge, so I present to you one version. Bellerophon, previously known as Hippones, was exiled by the King of Ephyra (his dad) as he had killed his brother Bellaros. He was also renamed Bellerophontes/Bellerophone meaning one who ate Bellaros. In some versions Bellerophone was a hero, no mention of brother-murder, but this is the story referred to on site, so I'm going with it. He takes refuge with the King of Argos, who was instructed to kill Bellerophone. The King of Argos had standards though, and considered killing a guest very bad form. So he sent him to the King of Lycia with the same instruction. Iobates decides to give Bellerophon a chance, and tells him to kill The Chimera. If he does die, then Iobates isn't any worse off, and has dispensed with his obligation.

Now our "hero" isn't completely stupid. He asks Athena, or Poseidon - it's debatable - for help. He is advised he needs to capture the winged horse Pegasus. Now that's ANOTHER story, so take it from me, he gets the horse with the golden bridle.  (But, be still my heart, Pegasus is my school emblem, and I lurve Pegasus, always will). 

Astride Pegasus, Bellerophone is able to fly high above the Chimera, and then swoop down. Belleraphone attacks with his lance, piercing him in the throat, killing the beast. But not before the Chimera scatters flame across the mountain, where it has burned for thousands of years.

True story. Here's the photo.

So Mike and I joined Ian and Malia aka Betty (as I am almost incapable of saying her lovely name correctly, and after so many embarrasing moments Malia let me off the hook, and I rechristened her Betty) from SV Longo Mai on an expedition. 

Ian has a areonautical background, so you can imagine that Mike and he had absolutely nothing to say to each other. Not. With Mike at the wheel we started off, and the conversation basically didn't stop all day. I have photograhic evidence. Luckily no photos exist of the moment Mike decided to overtake a truck on a narrow road on a corner. On a hill. With oncoming cars. Ian yelled "Committed" and Mike pressed forward.  The only reason we survive is that the Turkish drivers politely slow down, pull over or whatever to allow the mad man to continue on. It wasn't just me screaming this time. 

But I digress. Having reached the carpark area at the base of Mount Chimera, we had a slow uphill walk of about 800 metres - felt more like 800 kms. But it was through pine forests and lovely views. And we were keen to see this phenomena for ourselves.

Most of the time Mike and Ian strode ahead,talking talking all the way to the top. Betty made up some story about dodgy knees just to keep me company while I panted and straggled behind. Note: Betty and I are like the main characters in the movie "Twins", except in female form. We're made for each other.

Almost at the top we passed some ruins. These, apparently are what's left of the Temple of Hephaistos, the Greek god associated with fire, the blacksmith to the gods. Also a son of Zeus, wasn't popular with Dad. Seems to be a common theme.

But the real star were the flames themselves. In reality the flames are the result of methane gas (plus other gaseous friends) escaping and igniting. They have burned for over 2500 years, and can change in intensity according to the seasons. My favorite sign on site explained that 'The gas analysis' has been undertaken, but the 'y' had dissappeared from this phrase so it is 'gas anal sis".  Ahhh, I'm so mature.

Once upon a time, the flames were so bright, they could be seen from the sea and sailors used them to navigate. As people didn't understand their origin, they were not considered real, hence the connection to modern day 'chimera'. 

Not to mention the site was scattered with ancient stones, like the one above. The photos don't really do justice to the Chimera, Eternal Flames. Just remember these have been burning before the beginning of Christianity. According to local information, these were in fact the first Olympic flames. Athletes lit their torches from the flames of the Chimera and then ran down the mountain to the city of Olympos for athletic games. 

So of course this meant a trip to Olympos - and the topic of the next post.

PS ... and they almost didn't stop talking, leaving Malia aka Betty and I to explore and take photos at our pleasure. 

Savage dog attack! It's lucky we're in Turkey...

My apologies to those who have, unbelievably, been waiting for us to post something, our frustration with STILL being in Finike awaiting our new doors and covers has been a bit mind-numbing. 

However, as our fellow "captives" agree, it's not that bad waiting sitting on a yacht in the Med. 

Or, at least close to the Med. It's just out there, outside the marina!!

Mike has managed to keep our boredom away with boat jobs and other shenanigans. Last week, persistently ignoring my comments that not all dogs want to be his friend, he came across a marina dog coming out of the chandlery as he went in. "Nice puppy" he cooed and presented the back of his hand, then went in for the pat.  Unfortunately the nice puppy was an adult dog who didn't think this was an adequate introduction nor the way to commence a meaningful relationship.

So she bit the extended hand of friendship.

This is the savage creature, clearly a rabies risk....

A few minutes later Mike appeared back at the boat, blood running down his raised arm, and stated that perhaps we would have need of the first aid kit I had filled with supplies only the day before. 

Of course my first concern was for the interior of the boat - move your arm and stop dripping blood on the boat!!   Subsequent kinder enquiries revealed the cause of the bloody wound. We looked at each other, and I asked, does this mean treatment for rabies is required?  Yup.

Finike Hospital 

Luckily the hospital is only a 15 minute walk away. After the initial high-level home treatment of betadine and a bandaid, off we went, clutching our new Ikamet residency ID cards.

Now this is the real point of this post - the level of Turkish health care, which we had already heard good things about. We presented ourselves at the emergency foyer, and after a brief triage - name, bite, when? -  was instructed to pay a fee first. This turned out to the cost of the consultation, and came to roughly $10.  Then we were directed through some doors for treatment, where we waited for few minutes for assistance at a busy desk after passing over the triage paperwork. Having established that the bite was about 20 minutes ago, a lovely lass (in reality a professional health care provider) who spoke great English came to help. 

Just to paint a picture - This desk was approximately 5 meters long accomodating about 5 staff, and had no protective screens or barriers, no signs stating bad behaviour would not be tolerated, and the area was basically open to anyone.  Because these emergency staff do not have to cope with drug or alcohol affected patients, so are much, much safer than staff at western hospitals.

The emergency staff asked is if we could wait about 15 minutes as they were busy with patients from a bad motor vehicle accident. Um... sure, thats fine..? 

So we went out to wait. A small gathering of mostly middle aged people had started to gather outside the hospital. After a while we returned to the desk. Lots of phone calls and discussion going on. "Very sorry" says lovely lass, would you mind waiting about 30 minutes more?   Ohh the inconvenience, we didn't think.

Outside the entrance we had a surprisingly good cuppa tea and watched as the crowd outside grew. A small middle-aged man starting pacing, yelling and wailing into his phone, other people tried to placate him, but he was in a horrible world of his own. Over time we surmised  that these people were relatives of the accident victims.

Thirty minutes passed and once again we went to the desk. This time, profuse apologies, could we wait a little bit more, as the doctors were organising transport to another hospital for one of the serious patients, as they had too many to treat. 

Can you imagine this in Australia? Mike had a wound that could be covered by a bandaid, and they were incredibly apologetic about us having to wait! 

Trying to keep out of the way we observed the serious patient transferred to an ambulance, the stretcher making it's way through the throng of concerned friends and family, the wailing man distraught to see his son so ill. 

So feeling a little bit insignificant we returned to the desk, where the staff were a little more relaxed. Glad to say we provided some light relief when we provided the information that it was a marina dog who caused all this drama - for some reason they laughed at this, although whether it was because we are idiots to worry, or that this is a common thing, we don't know.

Mike received his first of three injections, a script for antibiotics and some cream, and a card with dates to return for the additional jabs. Wouldn't you know it, the last one is 29th April, weeks away.... But the total cost of all this will come to less than $40. So far Mike has only limited frothing at the mouth or howling at the moon.

And the savage beast? She belongs to Faik who ownes the chandlery, and has had her shots. Apparently this is unlike her. Indeed I saw her asleep in his office yesterday, head resting on the feet of another customer. But Mike will be keeping a wide berth from now on. Pun intended.

Plymouth and Antalya - historic tourist towns, or shopping meccas?

• In February we escaped the cold Turkish winter and flew to warmer climes, to visit Mike's (and my) family in .... Cornwall. Yes, I know it was winter there too, but we'd be sleeping in a room with four walls, heating would be available, and a normal hot shower.  It was bliss in many ways. And our sister-in-law Denise is an excellent baker - "I've just made some cinnamon rolls", or, "cheese scones would nice for lunch wouldn't it?"  Not to mention Alex and Denise's brilliant knowledge of where to get a good lunch/cake just down the road. Or a good pub meal at the local King's Arms in Luxulyan. Pronounced Lux-il-yan, not Lukes-a-Lion, as the GPS would have us believe.

Alex planting Snow Drops. One by one..

Men discussing menly things

A private stream marks the The Cairns boundary

We also took advantage of online shopping, local shops and chandleries at Plymouth, picking up things we had been unable to get in Turkey, such as a personal locator beacons to attach to our lifejackets, vegemite, and pick up our lettering for the boat. 

Don't  ask ....

Replica of the Mayflower

I had never been to Plymouth, whereas Mike spent some of his wayward youth there while in the Royal Navy, so we both enjoyed our brief look around The Barbican and the small museum dedicated to the Mayflower ship (and I have to say, the attention given to the dire consequences this had on the Indigenous American people, including to present times was both impressive and well presented). Then a stroll up to Plymouth Hoe (high ground) overlooking Plymouth Sound. This as where, in 1588, when advised that the Spanish Armada was approaching, Sir Francis Drake replied "We have time for another game of bowls...."

It was cold. Very cold.

Anyone for bowls?

After 2 weeks of warm luxury and with tightening trousers, we hugged Mike's mum Ruth one more time and flew back to Antalya where we had arranged to stay two nights so we could visit the most important place in town - Ikea. Mike normally hates Ikea. He HATES flat pack. But even he wanted to visit Ikea, a icon of western civilization. A major challenge of living on a boat is space utilisation and organisation, and there's no better place to sort your life out than Ikea. In reality we didn't find much of what we wanted, and tried to console ourselves with the Ikea meat balls. But alas, even that was a modified version, and no Lingonberry sauce!

Fortunately Antalya does have more to offer than Ikea. About 2 hours drive from Finike, Antalya is the 5th largest city in Turkey, with a population over over 1 million, set right on the Turkish coast framed by the snow-capped Taurus mountains. Founded by King Pergamon in 200 B.C, give or take, the city was originally called Attaleia, and like all places in Turkey has since many civilizations come and go. Having a natural harbour, it developed as a major port city. In present times, the location close to the sea, ancient sites such as Perge and Aspendos, the city's Old Town and the climate have made Antalya a huge tourist town. 

Our Accomodation. 

  We stayed an extra night to explore Old Town, or more     correctly known to the locals as Kaleici, which is "inside the   city's walls". Kaleici is a district next to the harbour, and is   surrounded by huge stone walls and fortifications. The main   entrance is through Hadrian's Gate, 150m from our   accommodation.

 The gate was built in honour of Hadrian when he visited the   city in 130AD. At night it is beautifully lit up, and like the   Sirens of ancient times, lures tourists and locals alike - come   inside and buy a carpet, rest a while and spend some lira, v   Euros or American dollarssssss...

Mike and I wandered throught the beautiful streets, exploring the back lanes and alleys as well as the main drag. Kaleici is home to many quirky shops, bars and restaurants. Overlooking everyone is the minaret of the Tekel Mehmet Pasa Mosque, relatively new, built in the 17th century. Glad to say, the dulcet tones of the call to prayer were much more in tune than that of Finike. 

The Walls of Old Town near the Harbour. The steps on the left were brutal.

As it was still winter, everything was open but not filled with tourists; in summer it will have a great vibe, but will be heaving with people. We did look briefly at very small carpets for the boat, but remembering the upcoming long walk from the Finike bus depot to the marina with our bags, we gave it a miss.

Before catching the bus home we explored the ups and downs, aka there's always steps, of the old harbour. Filled with pirate gullets and fishing boats, and surrounded by eateries with spectacular views, we declared we have to return to see the many other attractions of Antalya and regions - the ancient sites of Aspendos and Perge, the archaeological museum, plus there's waterfalls, beaches and canyons to visit. Why on earth would we go sailing?

But no doubt we will go back to shop.  This week in fact, to Bauhaus, The Bunnings of Turkey....

We may have indulged in a drinkie poo here